The modernists take a different approach. These wines spend shorter periods in oak, typically 15 – 18 months, often from the more subtley flavoured French oak casks. There is also a greater emphasis on concentration and richness and usually have deeper colours. These wines, generally speaking, do not adhere to the strict ageing appellations of Reserva, Gran Reserva, etc and are released to the market sooner, when the wines are immature or semi-mature. This style is exemplified by the likes of Artadi, and my new discovery of Abel Mendoza, who in my opinion is producing some of the best reds and whites in the region.
Mendoza has a miniscule production and his wines sell very quickly even though at this stage he is only known to insiders. His range goes from an unoaked red called ‘Jarrarte’ right through to some incredibly complex and wonderful single vineyard releases. His whites are as equally impressive.
Richard Ballantyne, September 2009
Ballantyne's Wine Review
April 2009
Champagne
Pierre Peters' Grand Crus Champagnes
Champagne is one of the world’s greatest brands. The name has almost become synonymous with celebration and enjoyment, and the Champagne syndicate of producers jealously guard their protected name.
Champagne is a delimited region of France, just to the north-east of Paris. In fact, it is France’s most northerly wine region, and gives its name to the sparkling wines it produces. The wines are made from a blend of (mostly) three different grape varieties, two black (Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier) and one white (Chardonnay). The unique climate of the region and the special soil in which the vines grow, a chalky limestone, gives the wine a quality and uniqueness of style that cannot be replicated anywhere else in the world.
However, buying a bottle with ‘Champagne’ on the label is no guarantee of quality. I have observed over the years many poor quality Champagnes that have been ‘fleshed out’ with heaps of sugar, lacking the verve and nervousness that a good Champagne should deliver. Many of those bottles come from well-known household names.
I am strong believer in the little guy and have made a discovery in Champagne which reignited my passion for this wine and the region.
Pierre Peters is a small producer in the village of Le Mesnil in the famed ‘Cote de Blanc’ where the most elegant and svelte Champagnes are sourced. This producer makes Champagne only from his own vineyards (contrary to popular belief, most Champagne houses do not have their own vineyards, but source from contract growers), so that absolute control over quality of fruit, and only uses Grand Crus, that is, the very top, most sought after vineyard sites. Peters’ style is perfumed, elegant, crisp and delicate.
You would think that a bottle from such a prestigious source would require a 2nd mortgage, but the modest Mr Peters’ Champagnes are among the greatest bargains I have discovered – from anywhere. These wines are a real treat and I urge you to seek them out.
Pierre Peters NV Cuvee de Reserve £27.99
Pierre Peters 2003 Vintage £39.99
Pierre Peters 2000 Special Cuvee, Les Chetillons £49.99
Ballantyne's Wine Review
February 2009
Spain
Leyendas Crianza 2004 Ventura de Vega
There’s more to Spain that just Rioja
Rioja has been one of the great success stories of the last twenty years, so much so that it has almost become a synonym for Spanish wine. Rioja is region of Spain in the mountainous north; a controlled and delimited zone (much like, among others, Champagne, in France) which is the source of some good, often indifferent, yet many seriously bad wines, that trade off the reputation of the region. Rioja is one of the easiest wines to sell; there is no other area that springs to mind where producers of low or average quality can find a market for their wine without too much effort. If it’s value you’re looking for, then you must seek out other areas.
An obvious place to start would be the neighbouring region of the Ribera del Duero, where they use the same grape variety (Tempranillo) as Rioja, but the wines are richer and generally have less oakiness. However, these wines are now gaining in reputation and are no longer the bargains they were of 10 years ago. Always on the lookout for up-and-coming areas, I have recently discovered the region of Ribera del Guadiana in Extremadura, a part of Southern Spain perhaps more famous for its ‘Pata Negra’ ham, one of the world’s great delicacies (in my humble opinion).
Ribera del Guadiana benefits from consistent sunny climate and low rainfall and without yet acquiring a prestigious reputation, these wines are proving to be excellent bargains. One producer worth mentioning in particular is Ventura de Vega, and in particular their crianza (aged in cask) Leyendas. This wine spends 6 months maturing in oak, then followed by a few years in bottle allowing time for the smoky aromas of the Tempranillo to develop. No more than just a hint of oak on the palate, and when compared to Rioja of a similar price, this wins hands down.
Leyendas Crianza 2004 Ventura de Vega £6.99
Ballantynes’ wine of the month for February & March 2009
Richard Ballantyne, February 2009
