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Staycation Wales.

Welsh staycation

My partner, family and I have been visiting the picturesque sea-side town of Tenby (Dinbych y Pysgod) since 2006. With every visit we have fallen more and more in love with the place, with or without good weather. When regaling friends and colleagues with tales of our many gastronomic and scenic exploits - the delicious seafood, the castles, coastlines and fishing boats - people often ask why we choose Tenby, rather than going abroad.

Tenby harbour (Gower is in the far distance)

True, travelling abroad may guarantee a sunnier, warmer holiday. But sitting on a sun-lounger surrounded by strangers whilst I progress through various shades of burnt pink to light red; to crimson; to light brown has never appealed to me (I generalise of course). Also, Wales is stunningly beautiful, and when the weather is excellent (corresponding to average abroad) you could not wish to be in a cleaner, more beautiful, place – and it's right on your doorstep (if you are lucky enough to live in Wales, of course).

Tenby's former lifeboat station

Having a 'staycation', as it is now popularly referred to, has become more and more 'in vogue' in recent years. People commonly believe that staying 'at home' means a more budget experience, but this is not necessarily true and can, in some cases, be considerably more expensive. Considerations, such as the cost of good food and the high cost of petrol, can make these holidays far from 'budget'. Accommodation options are vast, with a huge range of rental properties available for two-three day lets, to week or two week stays. So, depending on the quality and rating of properties, you should be able to find somewhere that will sit easily with your budget. Also, the proliferation of stunningly decorated boutique B&Bs and 4 and 5 star hotels in Wales (such as The Grove in Pembrokeshire or the St Bride's Spa) means, should you wish, you could spend £500 a night on a 'staycation' [I'd like that kind of 'budget'! - Ed]

The South Beach, Tenby

The Castle Beach, Tenby

Tenby's architecture is lovely. We've spent many an enjoyable hour wandering around the winding streets gazing up at the imposing Georgian town houses; their handsome, pillared front doors framed with elegant and ornate wrought iron fences, and each decorated in various pastel shades.

Typically, we rent an appartment in one of the Georgian houses in the centre of Tenby. The company we use most often (and satisfactorily) is FBM. The last property we stayed in overlooked the bustling main high street. Watching the comings and goings, whilst sipping a hot cup of coffee, is wonderfully relaxing and interesting (especially when interior design supremo Anna Ryder Richardson parked her brightly decorated zebra-print Mini under our apartment's bay-window). Alternatively, and in previous years, we have rented one of the properties in the heart of the harbour, or overlooking the South Beach's stunning cliffs, with their own, private steps down to the sea and with a barbecue area carved into the rock face. We once stayed in a property which we were asked to vacate for an afternoon, whilst a film crew from A Place in the Sun took footage of the property for a forthcoming programme; further evidence of the desirability of staying in this location.

Tenby harbour

We go self-catering, and therefore it is important that you have (a generous) food allowance for each day (we typically take between £60-£80 for each day). This sounds a lot, but having breakfast while reading the papers at Blueberry's – going to the wonderfully clean, reasonable and friendly café at the top of the High Street has become something of a family tradition - a two course meal with wine at the Plantagenet House restaurant (extravagant we accept, but a must if you visit Tenby) and something light for our evening meal - bought from the indoor market, one of several small shops, or Tesco's in the High Street (typically a baguette or something similar) will soon part you from your day's budget. Not to mention all the milk, bread etc. you purchase to store at the apartment, should you decide to stay in, or if the weather takes a turn for the worse.

Eating out in Tenby is not cheap, and it is important to research which restaurants will most suit your taste, budget and expectations. The remainder of our family prefer to eat in slightly less grand surroundings than the Plantagenet and recommend places to eat such as The Qube and Blueberry's for honest, uncomplicated fare. 

Seared scallops, at the Plantagenet House restaurant

Crab tian, at the Plantagenet House restaurant 

Oysters, at the Plantagenet House restaurant

For an excellent gastronomic experience, we would always recommend the Plantegenet House. This restaurant, in Tenby's oldest surviving house, can feel a bit formal; so it may not be for everyone. But we've usually found them to be friendly enough, and the food is very good, though not cheap. If you are eating at lunchtime and the weather is fine, request (they may refuse, but we have never been) a table to be placed on the small patio outside the restaurant. It is a wonderful experience; tucked away in the little winding alley, eating fabulous food in the sunshine as people pass you by. We would especially recommend the oysters (if only as a once in a lifetime experience) with a nice bottle of chilled white. One of the dishes we have each Tenby trip is moules-frites (in either a cream or a tomato sauce), with my partner remarking that their handmade chips are some of the best he has tasted.

Quay Hill and the Plantagenet House. The Quay Room is down the steps

Of Tenby's numerous pubs and bars, most serve food throughout the day, and many sell real ale. There's not a chain pub to be found - no All Bar One; no O'Neill's; no Pitcher and Piano; no Tiger Tiger;  no Walkabout; and no Yates's. Not even a Wetherspoon's, how refreshing is that? Each pub has its own character, some lively and brash, others comfortable and cosy, but all are welcoming.

Our favourites are:

• the Lifeboat Tavern, opposite the Tenby House, corner of High Street and Saint Julian's Street, on Tudor Square, has the welcoming feel of a proper pub, despite its nautical theme, and sells good real ales;
• the Quay Room, on Quay Hill, tucked away down a winding alleyway, between the Plantagenet House restaurant, to whom it belongs, and the National Trust's Tudor Merchant's House. An atmospheric cellar-bar, with splendid open fire. More bistro than pub-grub, the food is fabulous and the beer exceptionally well-kept;
• and the Buccaneer Inn, Saint Julian's Street, down from Tudor Square towards the harbour, has "the sunniest beer garden in Tenby”. It serves good value pub-grub, decent beer and a sunny smile.

Inside the Plantagenet restaurant, Tenby

Inside the Plantagenet restaurant, Tenby

Another well respected establishment (which we have never got around to eating in yet - so are relying on TripAdviser reviews in this regard) is the Blue Ball. Again, not a cheap place to eat but, according to the reviews, you get an excellent quality meal.

One of our absolute favourite restaurants is Mykonos; tucked away in one of Tenby's ancient town walls. We re-visited them again recently. It was one of the most amazing meal experiences ever. We received such a warm welcome, great wine and excellent, reasonably priced food of the highest quality – very highly recommended.

Inside the Mykanos restaurant, Tenby

As for fabulous coastline, Pembrokeshire is rightly recognised to have one of the most beautiful (and more importantly, cleanest) coastlines in the world. Tenby's three beaches each received a Blue Flag Award in 2011. The views from them, and from the cliffs above, are wonderful: the Castle Beach and the South Beach look towards the beautiful Caldy Island; and the North Beach's views stretch out over Carmarthen Bay, all the way to Gower. Tenby is also a great base from which to explore the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, though perhaps not for its entire length (186 miles).

Barafundle beach, less than half an hour from Tenby by car (plus a bit of a walk from the National Trust's car park at Stackpole), is an especially beautiful location for a picnic or long walk along the shoreline, shoes in hand. The Good Holiday Guide recently chose Barafundle Bay among the world's twelve best beaches. The eleven others were: Ras Nungwi, Zanzibar; Nha Trang, Vietnam; White Beach, British Virgin Islands; Turtle Beach on Pulau Perhentian Kecil, Malaysia; Cies Island, Galicia; Porquerolles, Iles d'Or, France; Turku Archipelago, Finland; Gramvoussa Beach, near Chania, Crete; Cap Bon, Kelibia, Tunisia; Lakshadweep Islands, India; and Muscat, Oman. It almost makes you want to go “Sh!”

Tenby, and its North Beach, with Caldy Island in the distance. Taken from the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, towards Saundersfoot

Taking less than two hours door-to-door, Tenby provides us with a holiday experience that has never failed to satisfy. Try getting to the Med in two hours (let alone to Nha Trang etc.) - you have to check-in at the airport two hours before take off.

Claire Meredith, 1 September 2011

Also by Claire Meredith:

     Photographic study of Myddfai; February 2011

     The Crown at Whitebrook; February 2011

     The New White Lion, Llandovery; February 2011

     Ty Mawr Mansion Country House, Cilcennin, Lampeter; December 2009

     George Thomas Hospice 'Style In the City' event; May 2009

All images: © Claire Meredith

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